Your ship's prow cuts through choppy water, sun streaming between the furled rigging. The approach to Nen-Tai must be a cautious one, for though a few miles of craggy cliffs and sun beaten dunes are all that remain above the waves, much more lies beneath, a shelf whose reef-covered summit would sink a careless navigator with ease. You glance down through water of such brilliant blue it veers on white, and glimpse the shell of a passing sea turtle, the sinuous patrol of sharks, the streak of dolphin pods that leap alongside the boat as if racing it, hoping for - and receiving - many a thrown morsel from the crew. At last your lookout sights the village of Aolei and you lay anchor outside a narrow inlet through the reef. The jolly boat is lowered and you row towards the shore. There is a sweet sea breeze, but the suns mordant heat soon has you more drenched with sweat than sea-spray.